When it comes to independent cognac bottlings in Belgium, it’s fair to say Malternative Belgium holds the crown. However others are also doing a great job at their own pace, Art Malts for instance (remember their Pasquet Lot 79)?
We look at four of their releases from lesser known houses like Pierre de Ségonzac, Gousseland and Domaine du Chêne.
Cognac Pierre De Ségonzac XO ‘La Rencontre Lot 90’ – Grande Champagne (40%, OB for Art Malts 2024, 60 btl.)
Nose: nicely aromatic. Apricots, bergamot, with hints of white flowers like jasmine. Sour berries with heady herbal notes, like mint and rosemary. Then also walnuts and juicy raisins.
Mouth: more fruitiness, on peaches, oranges. Later also figs and a hint of caramelized nuts., as well as some fruit tea. Then also figs, quinces and more raisin sweetness. Nicely balanced, with some toasted bread and oak spice towards the end. The ABV makes it a tad soft, but also makes it highly drinkable.
Finish: quite long, very long, with a subtle leathery rancio note and hints of fruit tea.
Really good, especially if you look at the price. A very solid price-conscious choice. It offers a lot of qualities of older cognacs, only at a slightly more accessible ABV. Available from Art Malts.
Next up: Gousseland, a small family-owned brouilleur in Chenac-Saint-Seurin-d’Uzet. They own around 20 ha of vineyards in Bons Bois. Very little information is available.
Cognac Gousseland Vielle Réserve 2000-2005-2008-2010 (40,12%, OB for Art Malts 2022, 72 btl.)
Nose: a slightly more rustic and sweetprofile at first, with more figs and grapes, hints of hazelnut. Some lighter marmalade and apricot jam, with red berries and plenty of herbal honey. Then floral notes which grow stronger over time, typical for Bons Bois.
Mouth: quite a sweet onset, on figs and dates, plenty of grapes, as well as sweet orange. Generous caramel notes as well. Then a drop of Oloroso – sweetness with mild pepper and tobacco – and old furniture notes. Very round and balanced, if a little sweet.
Finish: medium length, with a lot of caramel sweetness still, as well as early rancio and subtle leather.
The sweetness seems to take away a bit of complexity here, but the luscious Bons Bois character is very nice. And again, very good value for money. Score: 87/100
Cognac Gousseland ‘Lot 72’ (40,2%, OB for Art Malts 2022, barrique #3, 60 btl.)
Nose: a step up towards tropical fruits. Now pink grapefruit and mango come out on top, along with more polished furniture. Still some quinces and apricots. Then very light potpourri and sweet mint.
Mouth: beautiful, juicy and aromatic fruits. Apricot jam, hints of bergamot, plenty of stewed berries, mangoes and pears. Great fruit salad with just a dollop of caramel. Very candied and rounded, always smooth with only mild oak spice. Then back to pink grapefruit and orange syrup.
Finish: medium, with fading syrupy fruits making place for a hint of leather and fruit tea.
Beautiful, vibrant fruits with a tropical touch. If we’re nitpicking then a slightly higher ABV would have been welcome, and a bit of minty freshness too, to gain depth and balance the syrupy side. Score: 90/100
Domaine du Chêne ‘XXO Avant 1992’ – Bons Bois (48,4%, OB for Art Malts 2024, barrique #7100-7108, 60 btl.)
Nose: fairly heady, with some wood polish, dried mango slices, mirabelles, oranges and apricot jam. Fresh herbs and a lot of spearmint. Whiffs of cassis appear later, along with dried flower petals and very light hints of tobacco leaves. Beautiful.
Mouth: the higher ABV gives this a clear minty punch, with herbal tea and cinnamon. Then pink grapefruit, more mango, aromatic grapes and yellow plums. Cardamom and supple leathery notes, as well as a faint woody hint.
Finish: quite long, bright, with some citrus and florals, as well as almonds and drying tobacco.
The highlight in this session. The ABV simply works, and the fruitiness seems brighter and less capped by the caramel sweetness of the ones before. A nice catch. Still available from Art Malts. Score: 91/100