Millburn remains one of the rarest names in my tasting diary. This is only the second review, after a 1976 Gordon & MacPhail bottling that I had at the Hilton in Valencia one day.
Millburn distillery (originally called Inverness distillery) was closed in 1985, mostly because it was located in an area with very few transportation links. It was dismantled – today there’s a cheap hotel in that place, if I’m not mistaken.
Millburn 36 yo 1969 (50%, Douglas Laing ‘Old Malt Cask’ 2005, refill hogshead, ref. DL2152, 299 btl.)
Nose: quite thick and mineral. There’s vegetal oil, a lot of hay and plenty of cucumber water. Not sure I’ve had that in whisky before. Then hints of incense and light soot, along with a hint of pine, rye bread and aniseed. Gooseberries in the distance, but this is certainly not a fruity malt. Candle wax and library dusty make this is a lovely old-style profile though.
Mouth: oily, malt and slightly candied. The waxiness and slightly industrial profile is great again, mixed with a very light smoky warmth. Light peach and yellow apple, with plenty of citrus and one or two raisins. Light pepper comes out after a while, orange peel and walnut cake. Hints of motor oil too, along with a hint of cough drops and a subtle meaty touch.
Finish: medium to long, with a vague sweetness but also lemon peels and a very light bitterness of herbal tea.
Surprisingly good, even though it doesn’t feel as old as it is. Technically faultless, I’d say, yet so different from modern-day malts. Not for beginners though, you need to take your time and let it unfold itself. Auction material.