One more cognac tasting before the end of the year, if you don’t mind. The latest from Malternative Belgium, two bottlings for Passion for Whisky and two from the Journal des Kirsch series.
We start with Paul Beau, a brand that was revived in 2023 by the Laurichesse people. Beau was mostly selling his spirit to larger houses until they released own bottlings in 1977. It is the father of Olivier Laurichesse who continued the house after the death of Paul Beau, before he started his own production.
Cognac Paul Beau Lot 70 – Grande Champagne (43,11%, Malternative Belgium 2024, 290 btl.)
Nose: reminds me of a sweet Gewürztraminer or Muscat. Lychees, hints of flower petals, a bit of sweet almond paste. Some cinnamon and dark honey, as well as dried apricots. Light caramel. Then I’m getting a very light savoury / nutty / mushroomy touch that is obviously rancio but slightly bothering me here – airing helps.
Mouth: a fruity core again, although plenty of oak spice comes out as well. Some peach and apple, quickly overtaken by white pepper and cinnamon, along with walnuts and drying hints of tobacco. Some sharper floral notes evolve into resinous hints, making this a bit more intense than the ABV suggested (luckily it was not as low as 43.1%, ha!).
Finish: medium to long, quite a bit drier now, with peppermint and ginger, as well as Assam tea, still having a mineral / resinous side.
I am very charmed by the style of fruitiness on the nose, but the palate is mostly defined by oak influence. Always nice to discover a new name, but it seems this first Paul Beau isn’t on the same level we saw from Laurichesse over the past two years. Certainly good cognac, let’s see where they go from here. Available from Malternative Belgium.
Cognac François Peyrot Lot 61 – Grande Champagne (43,80%, OB 2024 btl.)
Nose: quite rich and jammy, on stewed red plums, raisins and figs. Butterscotch and dark honey. Hints of vanilla, along with worn leather and a fresh combo of mint leaves and eucalyptus. Then a little cedar and earthy soil in the end.
Mouth: on the richer / darker side again. On the one hand red jammy fruits, plums, dried apricots and raisins. After that more caramelly notes (maple) and fig syrup, getting close to Cream sherry. Light cocoa. Then bright spices, mint and a hint of candied ginger, as well as light menthol in the background. Finds a nice balance overall.
Finish: quite long. More of this minty / oaky theme with honey and syrupy fruits underneath.
A richer cognac for people with a sweet tooth. It never becomes bloated though, there are fresh herbs to balance it out. Really good price / quality here. I got this from Passion for Whisky but I’m not sure the bottling is exclusive to them. Score: 88/100
Cognac Mauxion 1958 – Petite Champagne (51%, OB for Passion for Whisky 2024, 78 btl.)
Nose: deeply fruity and very elegant. Tangerines – always nice – along wih apricot, fresh orange and mirabelles. Mint and eucalyptus, as well as jasmine and light whiffs of rose petals. Fresh leather, subtle camphor and floor polish round this off. High class.
Mouth: citrus zest and marmalade first – orange peels and grapefruit, with a tangy hint of white pepper and a subtle chalky dryness. Then it bursts open into passion fruit and juicy apricot. Firm floral notes and vetiver too. Mint oil and light resinous notes as well, almost medicinal at one point.
Finish: more eucalyptus and camphor with orange peels underneath, with a lightly tannic edge.
We’re getting to the higher echelons of cognac now. High-pitched fruits here with a floral edge. Really good, even though the wood gets more noticeable towards the finish. Well, 65 years in wood, after all. Still available from Passion for Whisky. Score: 90/100
Cognac Remi Landier L.72/73 – Fins Bois (52,5%, Journal des Kirsch 2024, 150 btl.)
Nose: stewed pears, with yellow plums, sweet grapes and a hint of apricot. It’s a sweet yet slightly restrained fruitiness due to underlying mineral notes. There’s also a peppery and gingery edge and subtle oak polish.
Mouth: initially a bit more rustic, but it bursts open nicely, with bright fruits but also oak. Mango, pineapple on syrup, as well as passion fruit sweets. Then a hint of marzipan and light coconut. Generous fruits and only minor oak spice, like ginger.
Finish: long, still deeply fruit. Also a hint of warming peppery oak, orange peels and dried mango slices.
Very, very good. Round and sweet, less sparkling perhaps, but having loads of tropical fruits along with spices. An all-rounder, suited for most palates. Score: 90/100
Cognac Mauxion ‘Sainte-Lheurine’ Lot 45 – Petite Champagne (55,3%, Journal des Kirsch / 2024, 144 btl.)
Nose: a lot of stewed apples and sweet orange juice, with nectarines, quinces and orange peels. Quite jammy, with herbal honey alongside. Subtle hints of tobacco leaves and the lightest hint of moss, as well as some mint, cedar and white flowers. Beautiful waxy notes too.
Mouth: peaches, fruit cake and mango, mixed with herbal tea, orange peels and blossoms. Great start. Then it gets way more mineral, with forestal honey, light menthol and leather, as well as some black peppercorns. Floral notes and hints of tea chiming in as well.
Finish: long, still showing this minerality while returning to tobacco and resinous notes.
The winner of today. A lot to like here, plenty of elegance due to the waxy / mineral edges and beautiful leather / mint. Still a few bottles available in German stores, or so it seems. Score: 91/100