Gordon & MacPhail recently launched the third installment of its Recollection series. It includes forgotten masterpieces, often from distilleries that have disappeared a long time ago.
There are six bottlings in this batch and we are lucky to try half of them. We have North Port (closed in 1983), Imperial (closed in 1998) and Rosebank (closed in 1993 but recently resurrected). There’s also a very interesting Convalmore and even a 42 year old Port Ellen.
North Port 42 yo 1981 (50,9%, Gordon & Macphail ‘Recollection III’ 2024, refill American hogshead #2072, 132 btl.)
Nose: a fairly dry and ‘old-school’ profile. A lot of lamp oil and waxed papers, with a very pleasant kind of dustiness. Then the lightest whiff of wood char perhaps, along with old herb jars and leather. Hay and dried wildflowers. Very un-fruity, in a really nice way, although there’s a hint of lime and slices of dried apple in the distance.
Mouth: really vibrant still, and slightly fruitier now, with hints of yellow plums, tangerines and lemon peels. Then back to drier herbs, old oak and leather. Mild gingery notes, as well as dried rosemary. Plenty of paraffin, as well as subtle touches of sweet mustard.
Finish: rather long, still balancing austere notes of nuts and herbs with vague echoes of wax and heather honey.
This brings us back to an ancient world. Not something you can easily try these days, but a style that is worth discovering. Excellent old whisky, from one of these distilleries that typically reach their pinnacle at a very high age. Available from the G&M webshop or from Loch Fyne Whiskies for instance.
Rosebank 32 yo 1991 (51,2%, Gordon & Macphail ‘Recollection III’ 2024, first fill bourbon barrel #2114, 141 btl.)
Nose: the usual lemon zest is here, with lemongrass and freshly cut grass in general. Lemon shortbread. It’s a little rounder than most Rosebanks though, with some peach and green banana as well. Then aniseed, mint leaves, with hints of flour and lime.
Mouth: again more creamy than I expected. Honeycomb, a little guava and pineapple, along with heather honey and hints of vanilla fudge. Mid-palate a tangy / oaky edge appears, but it’s definitely not over-aged. Lemon drops and subtle chalky notes too.
Finish: medium length, on lemon peels, a hint of passion fruit and grassy oak. Also a hint of milk chocolate in the very end.
A nicely fruity Rosebank, with the kind of first-fill bourbon roundness that counters its austerity my opinion. Now you probably can’t wait much longer before releasing these active casks. Score: 90/100
Imperial 33 yo 1990 (52,7%, Gordon & Macphail ‘Recollection III’ 2024, refill American hogshead #9825, 63 btl.)
Nose: the fruitiest by far. Banana peels, poached pears, pineapple, overripe apples and gooseberries. A dash of honey and generous waxy notes. Then also baking parchment and gentle oak spice. Orange oil. Not incredibly complex but really inviting.
Mouth: a very vibrant fruitiness again. Flashes of papaya, lime, along with pink grapefruit and mint. Then herbal teas and chamomile, with gorse flowers and hints of canvas. Black peppercorns and subtle wax. At times this reminds us of old cognac. Hints of tobacco and a few bitter drops towards the end.
Finish: medium to long, with lingering tropical notes but also a bit of gritty oak showing through.
The deep fruitiness of Imperial is something we’re very fond of. At this age it merges with oak tones, which means it’s a little more old school. Quite a privilege to have these three on a normal week day. Score: 90/100