Two weeks ago three new releases from independent bottler The Roots arrived in stores. Joren picked an old cognac from Famille Cabanne, but today we’ll be focusing on the two single malts. The first is a Secret Islay 2009 that starts with an A, the other is a Bruichladdich 2011.
Now the Laddie is quite uncommon: it is a Rhinns distillate. This style is a mix of two thirds of peated Port Charlotte with one third of unpeated Bruichladdich spirit, aged together. Sounds interesting.
Bruichladdich Rhinns 12 yo 2011 (52,3%, The Roots 2024, hogshead, 199 btl.)
Nose: aha, quite a farmy style of peat (cowshed, sheep wool). Dark, sooty smoke with intense bonfire notes and a salty side. Very warm, close to Port Charlotte I’d say. Light sandy qualities, as well as tobacco leaves and citrus notes. Some creamy notes, clear vanilla and charred peach underneath.
Mouth: a very warming, rewarding style again. Bonfire smoke, warm ashes and deep smoke, with a nice waxy texture and malty sweetness at its centre. Hints of caramelized apple, forest fruit jam, roasted almond and cinnamon. A vegetal side comes out mid-palate, along with toffee and herbal honey.
Finish: long, with a continued smoky warmth. Ashes, black berries and black pepper, as well as hazelnuts and espresso.
Only about 250 casks of this experiment exist and I must say this is a very, very pleasant whisky. Best of both worlds perhaps: I love the farmy quality of Port Charlotte but the oily thickness of the unpeated Bruichladdich is definitely an asset as well. Quite expensive for a 12 year-old, but quite special too. As always, check their website for a list of retailers.
Now let’s move onto the undisclosed ‘A Beg for Art‘. Do we need any more clues?
Secret Islay 14 yo 2009 ‘A Beg for Art’ (52,5%, The Roots 2023, hogshead, 179 btl.)
Nose: mezcaly elements at first, followed by a more medicinal side, along with tar, a bit of glue and used engine oil. Hints of graphite and cold ashes. Then echoes of a sandy carpet and teak oil.
Mouth: just a little sweetness (limoncello) before it gets tarry, citrusy in a sharper style and peppery, just like the best batches of the official Ten. A lot of black peppercorns, some aniseed and smoked herbs. Then some inner tubes, seashells, all kinds of maritime things and hints of olive brine.
Finish: long, maritime and tense. Black pepper, brine and lemon zest.
A good Ardbeg, perfectly in line with similar casks I’ve had before. All the classic notes of the house style in good measure. Overall a lovely whisky but the Rhinns had this special je-ne-sais-quoi, which means it wins this little Islay duel. Score: 89/100