Eden Mill distillery is based in Guardbridge, about 5 km north-west of St Andrews. For most of the 19th century, the Haig Family operated a whisky distillery on the site. A new brewery was started in 2012 and they also started distilling whisky and gin in 2014.
Apart from the core range single malt, available from bourbon casks or sherry casks, they also have a limited series called Art of St Andrews. A yearly release is presented in a special packaging, each with its own distinct cask maturation.
We try the latest 2023 release. It is a lightly peated spirit – in fact the first released by the distillery. Maturation took place in a combination of bourbon, Oloroso and Pedro Ximénez casks, before being finished in Grande Champagne cognac casks.
Eden Mill ‘Art of St. Andrews’ (46,5%, OB 2023, Grande Champagne cognac finish)
Nose: some hints of cardboard, with sawdust, oats, gin botanicals and a faint milky touch. Better than it sounds, really. The peat smoke is nicely delicate. Then the breadiness comes out, along with light eucalyptus, some grape sweetness and shortbread. Crushed hazelnuts and lemon peels too.
Mouth: youngish spirit. There’s a nice citrusy side, with green apples, peaches and honey balancing out the smoke, which becomes slightly acrid. Hints of juniper and ginger, including a herbal bitterness. Something of smoky dough. Then still a light cardboardy hint towards the end, mixing with grapefruit peels and gin botanicals.
Finish: light woody notes, with hints of grass, a little rye spice and flat Champagne.
It’s always hard to judge new distilleries after a first encounter. Is the cask combination a bit off, does the spirit need tweaking, or is it simply too early to draw conclusions? I’m not convinced this time and the asking price is… very ambitious. Still available from Royal Mile Whiskies for instance.