Bowmore, Williamson, Bunnahabhain (Sansibar / Acla da Fans)

Last month we had a look at the 10th anniversary whisky from Acla da Fans in Switzerland. Today we look at a few regular bottlings which they released together with Sansibar. Coincidently all three are Islay single malts.

 

Bowmore 20 yo 1998 (54,1%, Sansibar for Acla da Fans 2018, refill sherry cask, 358 btl.)

Nose: sherry, you say? Seawater and grapefruit, with lime and minty freshness. Some coal dust and iodine. Then seaweed, coastal peat, green fruits and perhaps a few oyster shells.

Mouth: a good dose of peppery peat, mixed with plenty of citrus (lemon / lime) and subtle eucalyptus. More iodine and mineral notes. Then salted green fruits and some leafy notes. Although it’s sharp and coastal there’s also a nice waxy and oily side to it.

Finish: long, quite grassy now, with the bitterness of grapefruit zest, ashes and leafy notes.

A nicely natural Bowmore with plenty of coastal character. Immaculate middle-aged Bowmore – maybe it’s a good thing the sherry cask is only present on paper. Still available from Acla da Fans.

 

 

Williamson 10 yo 2012 (54,1%, Sansibar for Acla da Fans 2022, refill sherry butt, 379 btl.)

Nose: slightly meaty and porridgy after the immaculate Bowmore. A light almondy sweetness that may hint towards a sherry cask, but still really, really subtle. Bandages and medicine cabinets, as well as some herbal notes. Dried seaweed.

Mouth: oily and very peaty. Classic tarry notes, sooty smoke and burnt heather, with citrus in the background. Some creamy barley sweetness and cocoa in the distance. Then warm ashes, burnt herbs and hints of vanilla in th end.

Finish: long, dry and smoky, with herbal notes, leafy notes and smoked almond.

Deeply peaty Laphroaig, slightly modern. No complaints except for a modest complexity perhaps. Still available from Acla da Fans. Score: 87/100

 

 

Bunnahabhain 13 yo 2009 (52.7%, Sansibar for Acla da Fans, sherry butt, 142 btl.)

Nose: starts a bit Edradour-y. A lot of dates, nutty notes, lovage and coffee with a dirty edge. After a while this (almost) clears up, adding some nice varnished leather furniture, brassware and menthol. Then some dark chocolate, blackcurrants, chestnuts and moist tobacco leaves.

Mouth: dark and heavily sherried. A lot of chocolate ganache, forest fruit jam, walnuts and black pepper. Quite some wood spice (clove) and gingerbread, adding dryness and hiding some of the fruiter notes. Candied orange and blackcurrant in the distance. Then more coffee, pencil shavings and a faint juniper note.

Finish: long and dry, quite herbal with a lot of chocolate and liquorice.

A slightly overdone sherry influence in my opinion, with a musty side that may not appeal to everyone. While I personally appreciate this style, I always wonder whether I could down an entire bottle. Still listed but I believe it’s sold out. Score: 86/100