This is the second (restyled) batch of the Benromach 40 Year Old. Last year’s release was pretty excellent and the 2022 release is following the same recipe of sherry casks.
At first sight at least. Upon closer investigation a few subtle changes are noticeable. Now they opt for a blanket statement of sherry while it used to be narrowed down to first fill Oloroso. Also the vintage statement disappeared and the retail price saw a 30% increase. Let’s just hope the quality remained on the same level…
Of course this is still ‘Diageo’ distillate (entirely unpeated). The distillery went silent in 1993 and Gordon & MacPhail restarted production in 1998.
Benromach 40 yo (57,6, OB 2022, sherry casks, 1132 btl.)
Nose: all on dried fruits like dates, figs and raisins, with caramel cinnamon dusting and lots of tobacco leaves. This has a very rich ‘herb shop’ quality. Some candied ginger. Later baked bananas and blackberry syrup come out. Polished furniture builds alongside brass polish and coffee ganache. Some rancio notes as well, reminding me of old cognac.
Mouth: quite punchy, with more tobacco leaves, walnut cakes and leathery notes. Then hints of cherries and cranberries, with chocolate and minty notes. I have the impression the texture is thicker than last year. Aromatic peppercorns. Hints of marmalade and herbal tea towards the end, as well as hints of liquorice.
Finish: long, with a fruitcake flavour, more marmalade and cocoa. Tobacco stays strong. Hints of herbal tea in the very end.
Truly marvelous stuff with a big body but also an elegant, perfectly polished sherry style. Especially the tobacco notes and sourish fruity notes make this a whisky to cherish. Even a point up from last year. Available from Benromach direct (UK / USA only) and from The Whisky Exchange or TyndrumWhisky for instance.