Glenesk 1980 (Gordon & MacPhail)

This Glenesk 1980 was bottled in 2014 in the Rare Old series by independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail.

Glenesk was one of the distilleries founded in the whisky boom of the late 19th century. During its history it switched from whisky production to malting and grain production. It’s only in 1964 (when it was called Hillside) that it became a proper malt whisky distillery. The name Glenesk was adopted in 1980, so we’re trying one of the earliest Glenesks. The plant was mothballed in 1985 so bottlings are very hard to come by.

Glenesk 1980 (46%, Gordon & MacPhail Rare Old 2014, refill sherry puncheon, ref. RO/14/04, 551 btl.)

Nose: an oily, slightly waxy nose on lemon verbena candles, apple peelings and old leather. Hints of hay and dried herbs. Subtle whiffs of dried pineapple, flowers and mint leaves. Banana leaves. Linseed oil. Quite complex but  subtle.

Mouth: gentle, with orchard fruits (apple, pear) as well as spices like aniseed, black pepper and fennel. A light mustardy side as well. Orange zest. Mentholated oak, as well as some earthy, leafy touches.

Finish: fairly long, with plenty of green, herbal notes and menthol.

Keeping the middle between gentle fruits, waxy notes and a more austere side with oak and spices, I like that. Not easy, but still a nice oldie from a lost distillery. Available from Master of Malt and The Whisky Barrel for instance.

Score: 90/100