Bunnahabhain 1989 (Abbey Whisky / Duncan Taylor) + Bunnahabhain 1990 (Whisky-Doris)

Three Bunnahabhain bottlings. I first thought they were all 1989 but it turns out one of them was actually from 1990. Three really different whiskies anyway.

 

 

Bunnahabhain 23 yo 1989 (44%, Abbey Whisky ‘Rare Casks’ 2013, refill bourbon barrel, 96 btl.)

Nose: peated Bunna. On its own this doesn’t come out that much (it’s rather a heathery, softly smoky style) but in a direct comparison it’s definitely peated. Also moderately fruity: oranges, pear, subtle hints of roasted pineapple. Light vanilla. Honey and hints of pastry dough.

Mouth: a nice, creamy mix of sweet marzipan, yellow apple and very mild pepper. Sweet lemon again. Hints of apple seeds. The smoky / sooty notes are gentle, with a faint maritime edge.

Finish: medium long, smoky, with a vague fruity sweetness and subtle pepper.

Quite a perfect starter: it’s very gentle (maybe a tad too soft) and very balanced, with plenty of all-round qualities (maritime notes, sweetness, gentle peat) that are typical for Bunnahabhain in my opinion. Very similar to a 1989 from Whiskysite.nl. Around € 100 back then. Sold out.

Score: 87/100

 

 

Bunnahabhain 23 yo 1990 (53,6%, Whisky-Doris 2013, sherry butt #10805, 252 btl.)

I thought this was a 1989 as well. It is only while looking up the details that I found out the bottle says ‘distilled in 1990’ although my sample (provided by Whisky-Doris) says ‘distilled 12/1989’.

Nose: unpeated Bunna. It seems more quiet than the Abbey Whisky release, with more dusty notes and some hints of rubber and gunpowder (probably amplified in this direct comparison). I do get plums and hints of melon, but not the exotic fruits that Whisky-Doris suggest in its own notes. Quite some acacia honey and aniseed. Dusty malt and damp earth. Waxy notes as well. Rather restrained. Maybe a Fino butt?

Mouth: stewed fruits, berries, yellow raisins, indeed with a couple of tropical touches now (guava). Again hints of butter pastry. It then becomes slightly drier and spicier (pepper, ginger), moving to liquorice and mildly salty, maritime notes.

Finish: Medium long, half sweet, half spicy, never loosing its maritime “terroir”.

Different story: less peat, more sherry notes, but in a Fino way rather than the classic Oloroso dried fruits. I’m not the biggest fan of the nose, but I have to say it picked up nicely on the palate. Sold out.

Score: 85/100

 

Bunnahabhain 25 yo 1989 (46%, Duncan Taylor ‘Single’ 2015, sherry cask #388337, 90 btl.)

As far as I can tell, the cask number and the yield of the Duncan Taylor bottling suggest an Octave cask finish.

Nose: yet another style. More classic, aromatic sherry now. Red berries, hints of stewed raspberries and plums. Melons. Nicely combined with Bunnahabhain’s flowery honeyness. Add a few minty / eucalyptus note and subtle maritime hints. Pretty excellent.

Mouth: sweet and fruity, like the others, but with more dried fruits like apricots and prunes. The balance of fresh fruits and Oloroso fruits is just right. The marzipan and toffee notes are there as well. However towards the end it becomes a tad too winey (like a red wine finish) with hints of clove.

Finish: medium long, a bit winey and oaky again. Lingering red fruits and soft pepper as well.

I really like the added hints of (Oloroso) sherry on the nose, but on the palate you sense the “high-pressure” wine influence of an Octave cask which cools down my initial impression. No stunner after all. Around € 290 (is that the box?). Still available in a few places.

Score: 87/100