Benromach distillery – like many others – was mothballed in the whisky crisis of the early 1980’s. In 1993 it was picked up by one of the most renowned independent bottlers, Gordon & MacPhail. Production restarted some five years later. Since then they’ve been working hard on branding and promotion, with good-looking bottles.
While the distillery is still not running on its maximum capacity, there’s a clear progression and lots of expressions are available: a young Benromach Traditional (and its replacement Benromach 5 Year Old), this Benromach 10 Years, a few oldies, a peated version, an organic version and several wine finishes.
Benromach 10 matures in a combination of 80% bourbon barrels and 20% sherry hoggies. It spends its final year in first fill Oloroso casks.
Benromach 10 yo (43%, OB 2014)
Benromach 10 yo (43%, OB 2014)Nose: this is rather stunning for a 10 year-old. Very aromatic, with sweet fruits coming to the fore. Apples, peaches. It’s a stewed / baked kind of fruitiness, topped with cinnamon and chocolate fudge. Brown sugar. A little mint and liquorice. Malty biscuits. Excellent whiffs of waxed wood and leather, as well as subtle bonfire in the background. Very complex and pleasantly un-modern.
Mouth: medium sweet, full-bodied, initially quite smoky and phenolic. Picks up fruitiness after that, with oranges, blackcurrant, raisins and honey. Hints of butter pastry. Soft nutty notes and soft spices. Complex and balanced again.
Finish: quite long, warming, with soft wood, minerals and lingering sherry.
Gordon & MacPhail engineered this whisky to replicate a profile of pre-1960’s Speyside whisky, which I’m happy to confirm. One of the best widely available, standard whiskies around, in my opinion. A must, especially for people on a budget. Around € 40 from Master of Malt or The Whisky Exchange.
Score: 89/100
Update 08/2020: check my review of the 2020 edition of Benromach 10 Years with new presentation.