After the Benromach unpeated earlier in 2024, here’s one that was released early January 2025. It puts the spotlight on unpeated high enzyme barley.
This type of barley typically serves grain whisky production or industrial brewing. Specific processing leads to a higher concentration of enzymes, mainly amylases which break down starch into sugars.
Maturation took place exclusively in first fill bourbon casks. This bothers me about the Contrasts range sometimes. It’s supposed to be an experiment with one uncommon element, but then they also change other characteristics. This whisky takes out the usual peat smoke and the usual sherry influence as well, making it harder to pinpoint the specific effect of the enzymes.
Benromach Contrasts: High Enzyme 2012 (46%, OB 2024, first-fill bourbon barrels)
Nose: it’s got a candy-like sweet layer (pear drops, green apple and marshmallow) with a good dose of vanilla and a slightly synthetic lemon and berry note. This overshadows the typical mineral notes that Benromach usually displays. Then some candied ginger, fresh oak shavings and simply lots of neutral (youngish) grainy notes. Maybe a nod towards grain whisky indeed. It’s unpeated but the green and woody edge reminds me of some Nordic whiskies too.
Mouth: quite a peppery onset, with some herbal notes and peppermint. The texture seems lighter and less oily than the regular Benromach. Rather wood-forward now, I’d say. Hints of apple sweetness and marzipan, along with light metallic note and a whiff of oak char. Then hints of grapefruit and wood bitterness come out, with the fresh oak shavings getting increasingly louder.
Finish: medium length, more drying wood with spicy notes and light lemon.
In a blind tasting we would probably have thought this was a wood experiment rather than a malt experiment. The texture is different and there’s a raw grainy note that makes it lighter than expected, slightly breakfast-like. The lightness also leaves more room for the woody notes, making it slightly incoherent overall. Nice to see they keep coming up with fresh ideas for experimentation, but I’m afraid I’d place it among the less successful results. Still on its way to most markets, but already listed in the Benromach webshop.