Today is all about Château Hontambère. This domain is in the Ténarèze region and owns about 42 hectares of vineyards. It is a relatively young winery (first production in 2008) but they have a significant production of around 60-80 barrels per year.
They have four grape varieties: Colombard since the beginning and later also Ugni Blanc, Baco and Folle Blanche. Sales are focused on the US but they’re now starting to become known in Europe as well, with a wider range than before. For more background information, check their website.
Hontambère is offering its own production, but they also have a Rare Armagnac Collection, a series of old armagnacs acquired from other producers, some of which now closed.
One thing I’m not very fond of is the fact that the original producer is often hidden entirely on armagnac bottlings. The Grape of the Art 1985 was acquired from the lost Pouchégu for instance, but it only says Hontambère on the label. The same goes for the 1982 we’re having today. Not only a problem with Hontambère by the way, armagnac is just not whisky in that sense. If you’re wearing two hats (producer + bottler / négociant) things should be more transparent, in my opinion.
Armagnac Hontambère 2013 Folle Blanche (49,8%, OB +/- 2024, cask #A24)
Nose: close to the wine, I’d say, with hints of grapes and mirabelles as well as a lemony acidity. A bright spicy note too: soft pepper, as well as some aniseed and minty freshness. Then a subtle nuttiness appears, mostly on almond and caramelized peanuts.
Mouth: fairly sweet and fruity, with a creamy texture and a nice balance. Hints of eau-de-vie of plums, with a peppery and almost gingery kick. Nougat, hints of toffee, hazelnut and faint vanilla. Then subtle herbal notes, even a salty touch. Overall a bit spirity around the edges though.
Finish: medium length, on mild oak spice.
Fairly youngish, not yet in the territory that most independent bottlers are exploring. A very refined spirit but not very complex. It’s missing one key asset: time.
Armagnac Hontambère 2011 Baco (57,2%, OB +/- 2024, cask #TC9)
Nose: a step up in terms of richness and aromatic intensity. Plenty of apricots, with orange notes, stewed grapes and hints of quince jam. There’s a volatile nice layer of varnish and floral oak too. Then dark honey and whiffs of vanilla pastry, as well as a mild peppery touch.
Mouth: quite round and viscous, with some of the fruits making a return. Jammy apricots and quince paste, with a few drops of Triple Sec. Then more honey, hints of marzipan and caramelized hazelnuts. A bit more spiciness towards the end, mainly pepper as well as a gin-like herbal edge.
Finish: quite long, with lingering fruity notes and a spicy finale.
Not much older in fact, but more to my liking. The elegant varnished nose is really good and it finds a nice balance between youthful power and elegance. Score: 87/100
Armagnac Pouchégu 41 yo 1982 Ugni Blanc (52,7%, Hontambère ‘Rare Collection’ +/- 2024, cask #F2)
Nose: now we’re talking! This beautiful varnished note again, but also plenty of juicy fruits. Cherries even (Maraschino but also sour cherry jam) which I don’t find often in armagnac. Also apricot jam, red plums, raisins and raspberries. Dried flowers. Hints of cigar boxes, along with sandalwood or thuja, vanilla beans, candied pecans and light minty notes. Subtle hints of tobacco as well, reminding me of an old Oloroso. Excellent.
Mouth: it starts with similar tart cherries, plums and juicy raisins, but the fruitiness becomes quite tropical after a while. Think pink grapefruit, maybe mango. Then it develops more spices, like nutmeg, cinnamon and liquorice wood. Some tannin bitterness, sure (but less than I expected), mainly sandalwood.
Finish: very long, with tobacco and hints of leather, with more of these juicy fruits all along.
I think the cherry theme here is spectacular. On the palate it is clearly more wood-influenced, but it blends exotic wood with tropical fruity hints in a very complex and concentrated ensemble. Succulent armagnac – hard to believe this is sold at under € 200. Score: 92/100