Today we look at three single malt whiskies from Down Under. All three are part of the Whisky Tour of the World pack, a kind of whisky advent calendar from Gravity Drinks that combines 24 whiskies from all over the planet (some of which are not commonly found in our region). It is probably the most beautiful tasting pack I’ve seen, with a wooden bookcase that holds five linen-bound books, each holding 5 cl samples, glasses and background information. The only downside would be the fact that they include two basic tumblers as ‘tasting glasses’.
Lark is one of the most famous names in Australia. It was founded by Bill Lark in Tasmania in 1992. They are carbon neutral since 2021 and they acquired Shene Estate in the same year. We’re looking at the cornerstone expression Lark Classic Cask, which is double-distilled and matured in small 100 litre casks for 5-8 years. Some say they are first fill Port and sherry casks, but there doesn’t seem to be an official confirmation for this (perhaps because they are seasoned with Australian wines which aren’t allowed to use these protected names).
Lark Classic Cask (43%, OB 2024)
Nose: rather fruity, with tangerines, grapes and apples. A hint of fresh fig perhaps. On the other hand there’s a big woody side – spicy wood that makes it un-Scotch. Hints of juniper, aniseed and mint. Then some nutmeg and toffee notes.
Mouth: honey sweetness up front, along with some pineapple and toffee apple. Plenty of malty notes. Then this youngish woody (piney) element again, making it a little harsher and minty. Cinnamon. Faint hints of wood smoke underneath as well.
Finish: medium long, with hints of vanilla and honey, mixed with mild oak.
Solid whisky, even though the woody fingerprint of the small casks is perhaps a little more prominent than I’d like. In a way it brings it close to American bourbon whiskey. Other than that, it’s nicely balanced and very approachable, with only echoes of fortified wine casks (if any). Now € 115 for a 50 cl bottle (in Australia) is perhaps a little too much for what it has to offer. I couldn’t find this in shops around Europe, but occasionally a single cask ends up around here (also very expensive).
Pokeno is located in New Zealand (granted, the title says Australian whisky, forgive me). They started distilling in 2019. All operations are conducted on site, including the only cooperage on the island. Barley is sourced from thee family-owned barns, and fermentation and double distillation are unrushed. We’ve having Pokeno Origin, a classic expression from first fill bourbon barrels.
Pokeno Origin (43%, OB 2024, first fill bourbon casks)
Nose: fresh and easy, with inviting hints of green pineapple, lime peels and green apple. Subtle floral notes, as well as a creamy note that keeps the middle between rapeseed oil and artificial sweeteners. Not bad actually.
Mouth: slightly less convincing now. Very light and simple, unfortunately lacking depth and leaving a watered down impression. Yellow apple, honey sweetness, hints of ale and green banana skins. Then some grapes and hints of white pepper in the end.
Finish: medium length, with the peppery malt staying strong, but ending a tad rough.
This Pokeno made me think of the 5 year old Glen Grants that were popular in Southern Europe in the 1970s. Not a connoisseur’s whisky per se, but I’m sure it makes a nice highball with ice in hot countries. This one is easier to find, available from The Whisky Exchange or Master of Malt for instance. Less interesting than Lark Classic Cask, but also much more reasonably priced. Score: 75/100
We end this little kiwi session with Archie Rose. Founded in 2014 in Syndey, and seriously expanded in 2020 with an entirely new distillery. They use specifically roasted, local malts and historic non-commercial Australian barley varieties. The benchmark Archie Rose Single Malt has a six-malt mash bill. It matures in 100, 200 and 300 litre Australian apera casks (similar to sherry), complemented by ex-bourbon casks and their own 36-month dried ex-rye casks.
Archie Rose Single Malt (46%, OB 2024)
Nose: a weird smell, sweaty socks, but this fades after a while. It settles down on hints of roasted coffee beans, toast and five spice, along with tobacco leaves and humidors. Then dusty cupboards with earthy spices, this could be the rye casks. Light juniper. The rich oakiness reminds me of New Yarmouth rums too, in a way. Not exactly fruity, but there’s a nice hints of cola sweetness. Interesting.
Mouth: rich and woody, in a totally different way than Scotch woodiness though. Cedar wood and exotic types. Some berry sweetness. Then a slightly buttery element. Mid-palate a big wave of ColaCao and milk chocolate comes out, along with gianduja. Black pepper and aniseed. Caramel notes, hints of cinnamon and moist wood.
Finish: shorter than expected, with some of that cocoa and caramel character but little more.
I’m not sure how much of the Archie Rose spirit we’re able to detect here. Overall it seems a little spin-doctored, with a specific malts, rye spice and apera taking it as far away from Scotch as possible. That said, it’s enjoyable and intruiging – there’s more to single malt than just Scotch, of course. I’m on the positive side here. Not sure this is distributed in Europe at the moment. Score: 83/100