Highland Malt 1987, Jura 1992, Speyside 1991 (Maltbarn)

Here are three more Maltbarn releases in the 26 series. As you know this is a series of cask remainders, forgotten stock, small vattings, etc… It will contain 26 bottlings in total – Martin’s favourite number in fact.

 

Highland Malt 36 yo 1987 (49,8%, Maltbarn ‘The 26’ 2023, sherry cask)

Nose: elegant dried fruits. Hints of raisined berries and preserved apricots but in drier, tea-like way. Everything is enveloped in leathery hints and dried herbs, as well as some earthy notes and resinous wood. Hints of fruit infused green tea and shortbread. Then hints of walnuts, moss and tobacco, with mint leaves and a whiff of smoke. A style that reminds me of a rustic cognac.

Mouth: good intensity. More earthy notes, liquorice and sweet aniseed, hints of leather and bottle aged mint liqueur. Light rancio. It gets a little drier than expected, with more of these tea hints and malty notes that remind me of old ales and rye bread. Hints of honey. Dried herbs too.

Finish: long, with more of these old-style notes, Darjeeling, marmalade, a drop of mocha and leather.

Even though this is late 1980s production I think the style goes further back. Very interesting and satisfying whisky for people who don’t require a lot of easy fruits. Check the Maltbarn website for more information.

 

 

Isle of Jura 31 yo 1992 (50%, Maltbarn ‘The 26’ 2023, bourbon cask)

Nose: while it doesn’t have the unique farmy touch that I found in other examples, it does have nicely different elements. Great mustardy notes, with gorse, some teak oil and paraffin. Then dried wildflowers and whiffs of potpourri. Some sour fruits in the distance.

Mouth: citrus peels and waxy notes, just a little tobacco leaf and plenty of vegetal oils. Now I do get a subtle farmy / peaty hint, or is that the vegetal side? A chalky touch, light herbs and a vague hint of green banana and pear. Then bitter almond, green peppercorns, a little salt and grapefruit.

Finish: long, with a green fruity note, saline touches and a herbal bitterness.

Back in the days I was rather ecstatic about some of the late 1980s casks. While not the same, this 1992 shares the same feeling: not entirely coherent and totally ideosyncratic, so lots of fun. I would have selected this as well. Score: 89/100

 

 

Speyside 32 yo 1991 (49,2%, Maltbarn ‘The 26’ 2023, sherry cask)

Nose: fresh and slightly jammy apricot notes, sour hints of kiwi and apple cider, as well as a fragrant touch of grapes and rosemary. Then fruit tea with acacia honey and lemongrass. The aromatic hint becomes a bit woody after a while, with a floral edge. Just a short sherry cask finish, I believe?

Mouth: rather creamy and fruity, more in the style of a bourbon cask I’d say. More peaches, melons, honeyed notes and sweet citrus. Then a light chalky hint and mint leaves, as well as that fragrant woody edge.

Finish: slightly longer than the others, still offering the dry character of Oloroso. Cocoa and wood spice with a slightly fragrant touch.

This is from Speyside distillery, so it’s not one of these undisclosed casks. It is not the most complex whisky but nonethelessthe fragrant hints and fruity sweetness make it quite pleasant and interesting. Score: 88/100