Not long ago we reported on the new Signatory Vintage 100 Proof Edition range. Now independent bottler Signatory Vintage created a higher-end addition to this series called Exceptional Cask.
The concept is more or less the same: a higher ABV of 57.1%, limited output (usually three casks combined, if I’m not mistaken) and first fill sherry casks. The black label Exceptional Casks are older than the common white labels (15-18yo vs. 8-13yo) and therefore demand a higher price of around € 85 vs. € 50-something.
The first few releases include a Glenburgie 2008, Aultmore 2007 and Macduff 2007. These Signatory series are really spoiling us with a wide selection at different price points at the moment.
Glenburgie 15 yo 2008 (57,1%, Signatory Vintage ‘Exceptional Cask – 100 Proof Edition’ 2024, first fill Oloroso sherry butts)
Nose: quite malty, with a café latte / cappuccino vibe and pecan pie. Also caramelized walnuts and a whiff of pumpernickel. Then some (subtle) beefy notes and dried mushroom, before it returns to toffee. Hints of red apples, but not much fruits in general.
Mouth: mhhh, quite fierce, with a charred side that makes it almost smoky. Then more toffee notes, caramelized (wal)nuts and coffee. Dark chocolate with raisins and a punchy ginger note, evolving towards herbal notes, including a bitter edge. Overall rather dry, spicy and pungent, maybe this would have been better at a lower strength.
Finish: quite long, with black pepper, chocolate and salty liquorice.
A caramelly sherry profile and lots of punch. Not entirely what I expected from a fruit-oriented spirit like Glenburgie, but a decent dram nonetheless. As always these Signatory bottlings are easy to find in Germany through distributor Kirsch Import.
Aultmore 17 yo 2007 (57,1%, Signatory Vintage ‘Exceptional Cask – 100 Proof Edition’ 2024, first fill Oloroso sherry butts)
Mouth: sweet, fruity and spicy. More raisins, plums and berries, with hints of red fruit candy and brown sugar. Still a bit of peppery heat and leather. Then hints of chocolate towards the end.
Finish: quite long, with more mocha, a little oak char and dark chocolate.
This is a really nice all-rounder and a good advocate for this series. A modern style of sherry, with active wood but always keeping the right balance. My favourite in this session. Germany is the place to get this, or perhaps TWB. Score: 88/100
Macduff 16 yo 2007 (57,1%, Signatory Vintage ‘Exceptional Cask -100 Proof Edition’ 2024, first fill Oloroso sherry butts)
Mouth: same earthy feeling, with liquorice and black peppercorns. Then oak char, roasted nuts and plenty of dried herbs, against a backdrop of dark chocolate and raisin sweetness. There’s always a hint of bitterness around the corner.
Finish: long and dark, on tobacco, liquorice and chocolate.
Caramelly, fruity or earthy sherry – a nice catalogue of sherry style, I would say. This Macduff feels a bit dark for summertime perhaps, but all three are nice drams. Also available from Master of Malt for instance. Score: 84/100
Would I call any of these casks ‘exceptional’? Maybe not. If I’m totally honest the whole 100 Proof series feels a bit like a one-trick pony. That’s not necessarily a bad thing: people want high strength and people want sherry casks. Signatory knows how to put these together and sells them at an attractive price, difficult for other independent bottlers to match (so no complaints there). It’s just that the first fill Oloroso doesn’t leave much room for distillery character or variation. One is a more fruity style of sherry, the other an earthier style, but they stay relatively close together.