Hi Liquor: Ardmore, Williamson, Secret Islay

We’re lucky to have friends around the world. Otherwise we would never be able to try whisky bottled for Australia. Today I can review three peated single malts: a not-so-secret Islay 2007, another not-so-secret Williamson 2010 and Ardmore 2009. All three were selected by Anchor, the independent bottling label from Hi Liquor.

 

Secret Islay 15 yo 2007 (49,7%, Anchor & Kanpaikai 2023, refill Oloroso hogshead, 168 btl.)

Nose: slightly dirty peat smoke, with plenty of bacon as well as a clear fishy side. Smoked mackerel. Then big hints of salted caramel, burnt fruit cake and seaweed. Grilled vegetables and increasing hints of mushrooms. Some sour / sweaty notes too. Quite intense, though maybe not perfectly classic.

Mouth: deep smoke again. Soot, leather and plenty of briney notes. Salted liquorice. The sherry is a bit winey, again leaving a sour impression. Then more salted caramel, cracked black peppercorns and moist wood.

Finish: long, with more of this salty smoke, caramelized nuts and brine.

This should be undisclosed Lagavulin. I think the sherry cask was a little unconventional. We’re always happy to see independent Lagavulin, but this one is not entirely convincing. Available from Hi Liquor.

 

Next up, another Williamson that bars the name Laphroaig at the same time (remember the one from The Malt Universe).

 

Williamson / Laphroaig 12 yo 2010 (50,7%, Whisky & Alement + Anchor 2023, refill sherry hogshead)

Nose: fresher and more medicinal, with cigarette ashes, animal fur and sea breeze. Hints of herbs and lemon zest. Linoleum, honeyed ham and grease. Subtle berry sweetness and hints of jawbreakers mix with camphor balm in the background.

Mouth: a rather mild onset. Dry wood smoke, cracked pepper, with camphor and a mild herbal bitterness. Then a lot of sooty smoke with some farmyard funk but also a nice fruity hint. Tarry peat comes late.

Finish: long, warm and peaty, with herbal tea, black pepper and a hint of wood.

A really nice nose and a complex palate. We’ll keep it short: this is simply good Laphroaig. Check Hi Liquor. Score: 87/100

 

 

Ardmore 12 yo 2009 (53,5%, Anchor Australia 2022, barrel)

Nose: a nice mix of sooty notes, freshly mown lawn, some lemon, peach and green apple in the distance. Light herbal honey and a creamy smokiness. Later minty notes and drops of seawater. Maybe a hint of mustardy sharpness. Very refreshing.

Mouth: really nice again. Oily texture, with a slightly estery fruitiness at its core (apple and peach). Then coastal peat, fresh herbs and hints of iodine. Lime and very subtle vanilla. Some sweet medicinal notes as well.

Finish: quite long, on peaty notes, grassy notes and herbs.

Great to see some fruitiness alongside a fresh and grassy peaty side. Ardmore wins from two big Islay names… although it may be one of these ex-Laphroaig barrels? Score: 88/100