Here are two of Waterford‘s latest releases, starting with Waterford Goldthorpe. Barley variety Goldthorpe was originally discovered in 1889 as a mutation in a field. It hasn’t been used for drinks production in over 100 years, replaced by higher-yielding but less flavoursome barley types. After Heritage: Hunter this is the second forgotten barley variety that has been revived by Waterford.
Waterford Heritage: Goldthorpe 3 yo (50%, OB 2024, 4000 btl.)
Nose: as expected plenty of barley and granola here, with a sweet edge. Baguettes and light honey. Then hints of lemon oil, oranges, and grapefruit peels, mint leaves and hay. Always a chalky / earthy note in the background too.
Mouth: thick and oily, with apple, sweet lemon and banana sweetness along with a firm gingery side. Toasted cereals and gingerbread. There is also a funny fruity note that I really can’t pin down – something I never found in whisky before. It then turns towards herbal tea with a mild bitter edge and plenty of mineral notes. Subtle clove and more hay. Rather drying towards the end, with a certain astringency.
Finish: very long, with this earthy and herbal character, along with sweetness. Sweet lemon peels.
A very fine Heritage release again, with a rustic quality that I also found in Hunter. A beautiful barley base with expressive spice. Perhaps a tad angular to score higher, but definitely an interesting release that deserves a slightly older follow-up. Available from the Waterford online shop for instance.
Next up is Biodynamic Cuvée Luna, a new flagship among the blends of different harvests. This is really the apogee of their concept and probably also the way forward in order to reach a larger public. It is a mix of four barrel types: first fill American oak, virgin oak, French oak and Vin Doux Naturel casks.
Waterford Biodynamic Cuvée Luna 5 yo (50%, OB 2024, 6500 btl.)
Nose: ah, this specific genever / metallic note of Luna 1.1 returns. Also unripe pear, green peppers and hints of grappa or very young cognac, with lemon peel and an agave-like note too. Less malty than Goldthorpe – brighter and fresher though. Then some dusty spice, birch wood and a pleasant sourness, even something estery at times.
Mouth: oily texture. Some juniper berries with lemon, green apple and unripe grape. Sweet lemon peels and whiffs of marzipan. Clove and fennel seeds, white pepper, still this agave funk, citrus zest and a very light salty edge. Then hints of dough and mustard seeds, as well as a maritime element.
Finish: rather long, still maritime. Now also greener herbs with a hint of cider apple and dried lemon peels.
Another very fine release, closely related to Luna 1.1 and even better than Goldthorpe, in my opinion. I love this mineral side combined with the superbly oily texture. It’s almost a cross-over of different spirits and while still young, this deserves your attention. The longer you have it in your glass, the more it convinces you. Waterford is selling it already, or retailers like TyndrumWhisky and The Whisky Exchange. Score: 88/100