Today we have a first look at bottlings from the Chinese bottler The Liquoree. They import some existing brands into the Chinese market, but they also have their own label. Most of these bottles will be impossible to get outside of China, but I find it interesting to get to know local brands.
The owner Keyi Cheng tells me he likes pure bourbon casks (like the Glen Moray and Mannochmore below), but apparently this style isn’t very popular in China. They prefer sweet and fruity (more like the Allt-a-Bhainne or Tullibardine).
Glen Moray 14 yo 2008 (52,2%, The Liquoree ‘Blackness’ 2023, bourbon barrel #5678)
Nose: fresh and sweet, with a lot of banana yoghurt, yellow apples and lemon zest. Then barley sugars and vanilla custard. Hints of lemon cake, sunflower oil and subtle green herbs. Freshly baked brioche and a whiff of coconut water too.
Mouth: bright and juicy, on peaches and unripe pineapple, many citrusy notes including peels and fruit jelly. Vanilla cake. Later on it gets tighter and less easy-going, showing liquorice and pepper, as well as some grassy touches and rapeseed oil. A subtle green bitterness too.
Finish: quite long, still zesty and green. Marmalade and cereal notes.
A very modern whisky: active wood of good quality, with a faultless spirit. Good, although the palate can’t keep up with the pleasant nose.
Allt-a-Bhainne 24 yo 1997 (52,6%, The Liquoree 2021, hogshead #134950, 156 btl.)
Mouth: mango, peaches, melons and more apples. The tropical fruits grow stronger in the middle, where they are joined by some beeswax. Then the bourbon wood brings in some green tea and white pepper. Reminds me of some Irish whiskey at times. Then grapefruit and lemon peels come out alongside grassy notes.
Finish: medium, still really fruity with a mineral note, honey and peppery spice.
Again, a good choice. The bottler tells me they have difficulty convincing the Chinese audience of this profile (I suppose they want sherry or other wine influences), but I think it’s really good. Score: 87/100
Orkney 22 yo 1999 (53,7%, The Liquoree 2021, hogshead #9, 310 btl.)
Mouth: a perfect balance of waxy notes, very mild smoke, coastal and oily notes. Beautiful jammy / honeyed notes, mixing with lightly tropical fruits (ripe pineapple). Light leafy hints (maybe tobacco) alongside herbal extract, aniseed and dried seaweed.
Finish: quite long, herbal and leafy, still having a few hints of tobacco and a vague bittersweet edge.
Fairly gentle but still evocative: this is a highly balanced HP. An excellent old-style Highlands whisky. Recommended. Apparently a sister cask of the Nanyang / Rejo bottling. Score: 90/100
Mannochmore 14 yo 2008 (56,5%, Signatory Vintage for The Liquoree ‘Blackness’ 2023, hogshead #12254, 286 btl.)
Mouth: still rather tight, although the fruits come out more. Sweet lemons, green apples, gooseberries and light peaches. Then lemongrass, “regular” grass and porridge, with mild hints of wax. Refreshing but also quite narrow, with oak spice taking over after a while. White pepper and nutmeg.
Finish: medium length, with something slightly synthetic / chemical now, alongside floral notes, sharp citrus and some tannins.
Not bad, but this Mannochmore has some rough edges. It has nice waxy touches, bringing it close to Clynelish at times. However it doesn’t stand up to better examples like the TWA bottling. Score: 85/100
Tullibardine 2012 (56,3%, The Liquoree 2022, first fill Palo Cortado hogshead #16)
Mouth: quite robust and very sweet. Plenty of caramelized nuts, raisins, ginger and black pepper. Walnut cake and hints of orange peels, alongside herbal tea and hints of chocolate. There’s a light meatiness to it, as well as some wry wood tannins, but overall it’s rich and fairly balanced.
Finish: medium length, with something slightly synthetic / chemical now, alongside floral notes, sharp citrus and some tannins.
A very rich whisky, with plenty of caramelized notes and generous amounts of fruity sweetness. Almost enough to keep the active wood at bay. Similar to the modern recipe of, say, GlenAllachie. Score: 86/100