Three of the latest cognac releases from Malternative Belgium are selections from the cellars at Cognac Tiffon. It is a prestigious name in Jarnac, related to the brand Braastad. The Norvegian Sverre Braastad married the daughter of cognac producer Tiffon in 1913 and settled in the Château de Triac.
The name Tiffon doesn’t appear from independent bottlers often, but we’ve had a great Lot 45 from Swell de Spirits and a wonderful set of three 19:22 casks by Berry Bros / Kirsch Import.
Cognac Tiffon 1995 – Grande Champagne (40,86%, Malternative Belgium 2023, 480 btl.)
Nose: luscious sweet aromas of peaches and worn leather. Hints of mint and fresh floral notes typical of Grande Champagne. Then coppery notes. Some woody notes and tobacco too, mixing with cocoa.
Mouth: a firm woody side now, with sandalwood and ginger. Enough dried fruits (apricots) with orange peels to keep it in check. Jaffa cakes and hints of roasted walnuts. Tobacco and hawthorn, with dark honey and chocolate in the background. Some green spice (nutmeg) and hints of leafy bitterness towards the end.
Finish: medium length, oily and leafy, with hints of liquorice and oak.
A fine cognac with a marked oak influence. There’s a nice sweetness but don’t expect exuberant fruits like in the older expressions. The lower ABV makes it almost too easy to drink and keeps the price low: good value for money.
After this regular Malternative Belgium release, we look at two bottlings exclusive to The Antelope in Macau, together with Kanpaikai in Japan. We assume T.V. Res. stands for Très Vielle Réserve, or a really old composition.
Cognac Tiffon T.V. RES. – Grande Champagne (43,6%, Malternative Belgium for The Antelope & Kanpaikai 2023, 42 btl.)
Nose: brighter, more honeyed, with orangs, candied apricot, mirabelles. Also juicy plums and floral notes. Whiffs of musk and vanilla, as well as Earl Grey tea and fresh herbs. Light hints of eucalyptus, waxed furniture and cedar in the background. Beautiful.
Mouth: still this bright profile with plenty of oranges, marmalade notes, peaches and bergamots. Then black tea and polished wood notes, subtle menthol and rancio. Nutmeg, cinnamon and hints of old oak.
Finish: the apricots linger, with honey and light mentholy oak.
Clearly much older – the official Très Vielle is said to contain spirits between 50 and 90 years of age. Full of finesse and full of bright fruity notes, with nicely waxed oak. Score: 90/100
Cognac Tiffon Lot 75 – Borderies (44,7%, Malternative Belgium for The Antelope & Kanpaikai 2023, 42 btl.)
Nose: vanilla and toffee at first, with hints of potpourri and floral honey growing stronger (jasmine I’d say). Apricot and whiffs of cherry. A little thuja wood. Then bright oranges and tangerines, grapes. Not the most complex nose perhaps, but very noble and elegantn, with a beautiful heady side.
Mouth: bigger than the ABV would suggest, but fairly compact. Nice citrusy acidity, menthol and spearmint. Quite tight but the freshness is impressive. Verbena and violets, light resinous notes, cinnamon, orange zesty and drops of light honey.
Finish: not too long, but showing nice hints of caramel, citrus and light tobacco.
I really like the citrusy side and the superb freshness of this Borderies, coupled to mild spice and mint. Like a beautifully elegant gazelle. Score: 90/100