5 Cognacs: Fougerat, Marie Foucher, Giboin, Pasquet…

Here’s our periodic cognac session. We start with a Petite Champagne from Fanny Fougerat that had 50 years of ageing. Ugni Blanc from old French oak. This is the fifth bottling Hors série, in a family of special editions.

 

Cognac Fanny Fougerat Hors série – SIR Type 72 – Petite Champagne (47,8%, OB 2023, 768 btl.)

Nose: very fruity start, entirely on apricots, juicy pears and mirabelles, quite jammy with some raisiny notes. Then a soft grassy / herbal side lifts it, even a whiff of rosemary. Some polished oak, as well as light waxy touches and flower petals. Very round and velvety.

Mouth: still totally fruity, now showing a rather tropical style. Papaya, tangerines, as well as quinces and honeysuckle. Perhaps a little more oak than the nose suggested (ginger and pepper). Orange peels, a hint of vanilla, clover honey and a pinch of chocolate. More floral and earthy hints in the end.

Finish: quite long, back towards minty and herbal notes, along with coffee beans and some brown sugar.

Rather sweet at times, but overall a nicely complex and fruity style. Not at all a loud cognac – this demands a quiet, gentle approach. Really good. Available from The Whisky Exchange for instance.

 

 

Cognac Giboin 2003 – Fins Bois (46,5%, OB for Passion for Whisky 2024, cask #602, 120 btl.)

Nose: rather dark and full, with stewed plums, raisins and brown sugar, as well as some wood spices. Then candied orange peels with fresh blossomy notes. Hints of honey and maple syrup, followed by herbal notes and spearmint. Quite complex.

Mouth: rather spicy now, with plenty of woody pungency and gingery heat. Lots of syrupy notes underneath, think fig jam, stewed blackberry and lots of raisins. Dark honey, gingerbread and roasted nuts. Then thyme syrup which is sometimes used in cough medicine. Reminds me of a PX matured Brandy de Jerez at times.

Finish: quite long and dark, on sweetened black tea, herbal bitters and some chocolate coated walnuts.

This misses some of the finesse that we love in cognac, bringing it closer to other brandies. Pretty impressive for its age though, and definitely a nice option if you like sweet, robust cognacs at an affordable price. Still available from Passion for Whisky. Score: 86/100

 

 

Cognac M. Débauché N°19.74 – Grande Champagne (49,4%, Malternative Belgium for Peter Platteau 2024, 45 btl.)

Nose: leaner and fresher, slightly more spicy as well. And definitely more (nice) rancio than the Fougerat. A little varnish and menthol. The fruits are half-dried plums and raisins, as well as melons and syrupy apples in the distance, with hints of precious tea leaves, herbs and parsley.

Mouth: a more robust and herbal style indeed, with sweet spice and a dark fruitiness underneath. Hints of tobacco and walnuts, while raisins, sweet apple and old wood are supporting it. Flashes of bergamot and mint as well.

Finish: medium, on stewed fruits and sweet spice.

Débauché is an unknown name to me, apparently a slightly more robust cognac but certainly not without balance. A private bottling – happy 50th birthday, Peter! Score: 88/100

 

 

Cognac JL Pasquet ‘Lot 57-62’ – Grande Champagne (50,6%, Swell de Spirits 2023, 200 btl.)

Nose: an oily / fruity profile, with a lot of orange oils, candied peels, along with orange flowers and rose petals. Rather heady at first. Then it develops pears and mango, as well as some lychee syrup. Then a little cinnamon, beeswax and polished oak, as well as a wee nutty touch.

Mouth: punchy, starting on minty notes, chestnuts and light earthy notes. Underneath is the fruity side, with tangerines, peaches on syrup and orange liqueur. Some resinous touches. Then spiced honey and hints of white pepper. Wee hints of salted caramel in the end.

Finish: quite long, a tad salty, with more of these orange and tangerine notes, verbena, ginger and polished wood.

A nicely floral fruitiness, with a few resinous touches here and there. Fresh stuff. A quality bottling from Swell de Spirits that is still available from a couple of partner shops. Score: 90/100

 

Last but not least, a new name. In the 1980s Marie Foucher took over the vineyards of her father in Fins Bois. Pieter got to know her last year and is proud to present the first bottling of this house. Until now they only sold spirit to Courvoisier and a couple of négociants.

 

Cognac Marie Foucher ‘Lot 77’ (51,74%, Malternative Belgium 2024, 396 btl.)

Nose: very aromatic, with lots of stewed apricots and nectarines, quince jelly, sultanas and a hint of vanilla. Hints of honeysuckle and mead. Then a series of floral notes, including rose jelly or lokum and hints of jasmine tea.

Mouth: yes, lots of very fresh fruits again (apricot, mango, mandarin), still showing some floral touches like rose petals. Then some orange peels and Grand Marnier, with a subtle bitter edge and some dryness of tobacco leaves. Beehive notes, cinnamon and drops of clove oil in the end.

Finish: long, mostly on orange notes, leather and oak spice.

A very all-round cognac in my opinion: sweet fruity notes mixed with floral elements and balanced wood. Really good, still available from Malternative Belgium. Score: 91/100