It’s been a while since we’ve reviewed cognac. In this little session we try two recent bottlings from Famille Cabanne.
Cabanne is a fairly new name to me, the first encounter was the Lot 68 from The Whisky Jury, less than a year ago. Then the Cabanne 19.10 left quite an impression, so they’re certainly a house to keep an eye on.
The first cognac today is a Lot 59 Grande Champagne bottled for Wine4You, with a low ABV. The other one is a Lot 79 from the Bons Bois region, selected by Passion for Whisky. This couldn’t be further apart in terms of strength…
Cognac Famille Cabanne Lot 59 – Grande Champagne (40,6%, OB for Wine4You 2024, 25 btl.)
Nose: juicy apricots and nectarines with vanilla and bergamot. Then candied mango and a lot of crushed spearmint. Whiffs of leather in the background, as well as some polished oak. Orange oil, rose pepper and floral touches (almost soapy but never intruding). Pretty excellent, and quite forthcoming despite the low strength.
Mouth: a lot of bright citrusy notes, think tangerines, limes and oranges. Nectarines and banana skins in the background. Then some Earl Grey tea, mixing with herbal tea, chlorophyll and floral honey. Nice rancio! A hint of walnut and aniseed add a mildly rustic side, but here the ABV keeps it smooth – it’s never woody anyway.
Finish: long and drying, with more (slightly tropical) fruitiness, mint, green tea leaves and aniseed.
A great profile with plenty of nice rancio notes and fruity notes. An excellent choice for those who like a lower ABV (high drinkability) without compromising on quality. Exclusively available from Wine4You.
Cognac Famille Cabanne Lot 79 – Bons Bois (62,5%, OB for Passion for Whisky 2024, 42 btl.)
Nose: more robust and simple, but still really elegant. Preserved peaches, acacia honey and more berry sweetness than the Lot 59. Drops of fruit liqueur. Candied oranges and cherries. A mild spicy oakiness of cigar boxes underneath.
Mouth: plenty of power, which means the oak spice gets to talk first. Pepper, hints of liquorice and nutmeg. Then the sweetness returns, with raisins and stewed peaches. A hint of maple syrup. Walnuts and black tea. Flashes of Earl Grey and a gentle bitterness of Seville oranges.
Finish: long, with some nutty notes, an earthy / resinous touch and bittersweet herbs.
The Spotify code on the label takes you to ‘Message in a bottle’ which was released in 1979 as well. Nice idea. The cognac itself is a great example of the slightly rougher, spicier style of Bons Bois. It matches the powerful ABV. Available from Passion for Whisky. Score: 89/100