I’m desperately trying to catch up with all the samples that are currently on my desk. One of the packages that was long overdue is from Dutch bottler Hogshead Imports. Today I’m trying four peated single malts from Glenturret, Bunnahabhain, Caol Ila and Jura (we think).
Peated Highland 19 yo 2004 (48%, Hogshead Imports 2023, refill barrel, 295 btl.)
Nose: rather farmy peat (horse stable), with mulched leaves, old pieces of wood and some meaty hints. Black peppercorns, cold garden bonfire and raw wool. Then vanilla richness, some melons and overripe pineapple in the background. Subtle menthol and whiffs of fresh concrete.
Mouth: still quite leafy, with a firm salty side. Lemon zest, vague stone fruits and cider apples, along with plenty of medicinal notes and burnt grasses. Minty notes, a little mustard and charred herbs. Smoked meat in the distance.
Finish: medium to long, with herbal smoke, a hint of bacon, liquorice and white pepper.
Could this be Jura, as suggested by similar casks? Perhaps, yes. A type of spirit that isn’t very typical for the distillery, but nonetheless of high quality. If you’re interested, you can find their partner shops on the website.
Bunnahabhain Staoisha 9 yo 2013 (48%, Hogshead Imports 2023, refill barrel, 278 btl.)
Nose: much cleaner and brighter, focusing more on coastal notes. Liquorice and slightly acrid lemons, with oysters and green bananas. Cigarette smoke, not too loud. Then some mint, smoked almonds and wool. There’s a light hint of fruit candy in the distance too, maybe peach flavoured.
Mouth: quite oily, on olive oil, Lapsang tea, a little mocha and a good dose of refreshing aniseed and eucalyptus. Green pepper, as well as a pinch of salt. Pure lemons, rockpools and hints of ginger. Rather elegant for a Staoisha.
Finish: long, fresh, even a little floral, but also showing anise, lemon juice and plenty of maritime notes.
Young, a tad less complex than the peated Highland, but the freshness is impressive. Coastal peat, with none of the meatiness. I prefer this style – Staoisha is often excellent. Score: 88/100
Caol Ila 10 yo 2012 (55,8%, Hogshead Imports 2023, first-fill Caroni barrel, 44 btl.)
Nose: ah, the Caroni is obviously in the lead here. Esters, hints of diesel and a whiff of acetone. This mixes with seawater, green melon and green banana. Even a floral note. Then smoked oysters and hints of fabrics. More of an uncommon rum than an exceptional Caol Ila, if that makes sense.
Mouth: still plenty of rummy goodness. Petrol notes again, hints of olives in brine, mild tar and salted anchovy. Liquorice and peppermint. Mid-palate a funky floral note appears, almost soapy at some point. Then back to coastal peat, wet rocks and herbs. A bit acrid and sharp now.
Finish: long, on herbal smoke, brine and zesty lemons.
Initially I had difficulty accepting the huge footprint of the rum: there’s probably more rum than whisky in the bottle. Over time though, I became quite fond of the mix, especially since Caroni aromas and flavours are very compatible to those of Caol Ila. Slightly freaky whisky, but a great experiment. Score: 88/100
For the next one, I notice it says solera hogshead on the label. It turns out to be a re-coopered old PX butt, which makes sense since I’ve hardly ever witnessed hogshead casks in soleras at sherry bodegas.
Glenturret – Ruadh Maor 11 yo 2011 (57,1%, Hogshead Imports 2024, first fill PX sherry solera hogshead, 325 btl.)
Nose: far less peaty than I expected, and far less sherried too. There’s a smouldering wood log and whiffs of birchwood. Then plenty of dried grassy notes and fallen leaves. Quite savoury, with walnuts, dusty cloth and muddy earth, as well as a faint hint of red berries in the distance. Lighter than expected, yet a little rustic.
Mouth: now playing the peat card. Really leafy and dry, with much more (wood) smoke than the nose suggested. A little butter toffee and brown sugar, as well as light hints of bacon. Subtle citrus and salt coming out towards the end, along with a mild rubbery edge.
Finish: quite long and drying, with a lightly creamy edge, faint coastal notes and green pepper.
I believe this is from the inaugural batch from this bottler. Even after this 26 month finish, it would be hard to guess this were a first fill PX cask. Not really a highlight in this session: it’s very leafy, with a very ‘mainland’ kind of peat and not enough sherry to balance it. Score: 84/100