A simple session today. I came across a Mortlach 2011 and Bunnahabhain 2004 bottled by Douglas Laing in their Old Particular series. The Bunna is a peated version, ‘Moine’ spirit.
Mortlach 12 yo 2011 (48,4%, Douglas Laing ‘Old Particular’ 2023, refill hogshead, 361 btl.)
Nose: at first nice and fruity, with stewed apples and foam bananas, as well as some bread dough and hints of cut grass. Then gooseberries, a hint of coconut and golden raisins. Light vanilla. There’s a slight robustness to it, but other than that it’s surprisingly fresh and fruity.
Mouth: same feeling of bright, almost tropical fruits. Apricots, yellow plums, lemons and kumquats. Perhaps a little mango even. Getting greener and zestier after a while, with added grapefruits. Then some lightly baked pastry with custard, as well as vanilla biscuits and honeyed nuts. Hints of candied ginger and white pepper as well.
Finish: medium length, but fresh. More of this vanilla with green fruits combination and some zesty and grassy touches.
We tend to associate Mortlach with a heavier and more meaty style, but this is surprisingly bright and fruity. Why aren’t we seeing this profile more often? Sold out almost everywhere, but I noticed it on deinWhisky.de, or you can get a sample from Whiskysite.nl
Bunnahabhain Moine 18 yo 2004 (48,4%, Douglas Laing ‘Old Particular’ 2022, refill hogshead, 284 btl.)
Nose: very sooty and ashy, with tarry ropes and old ships in the docks. Crushed peppercorns, rusty coins, whiffs of smoked meat. Then tobacco leaves, hickory smoke and dusty hay, as well as some salty air. Over time diesel fumes and medicinal touches become stronger.
Mouth: seems a little younger now, somehow. Straight peat, smoked barley, more tobacco and black peppery notes. Hints of bacon appear, as well as smoked pear and plenty of cold ashes. A light gingery note and scorched lemon zest, along with herbal notes in the distance. Despite some sweetness, it leaves a sharp and coastal impression.
Finish: long, sweet and herbal, full of barbecue ashes, brackish peat, with a light woody edge.
A very coastal dram, robust and wintery. Quite an audacious dram with plenty of character, but less depth and balance than I expected. Sold out, as far as I can tell. Score: 83/100