Benrinnes 2002, Inchgower 2000, Bunnahabhain 2012 (Milroy’s)

Milroy’s of Soho just released a new batch of own label bottlings (check out the previous batch which we reviewed in February). There are two middle-aged Speyside whiskies from Benrinnes and Inchgower, as well as a peated Bunnahabhain.

 

Benrinnes 21 yo 2002 (46,3%, Milroy’s Vintage Reserve 2023, hogshead #3453)

Nose: peaches up front, with oranges and yellow apples. Some grassy and floral notes too. Buttered bread. Then light whiffs of wax and chalk, almost Clynelish style. A little rhubarb perhaps.

Mouth: slightly bulky, still showing this mix of chalky / oily notes and orchard fruits. Green apples and banana peels. Mid-palate it becomes quite grassy, with green spice and a wee bitter touch. Later there’s light caramel to make it rounder again. Hints of herbal honey too.

Finish: medium length, grassy and spicy, with orchard fruit in the background.

I had an ‘almost great, but not quite’ feeling here. The waxy notes and mature fruits are definitely nice, but the grassy side seem to hold it back a little. Now available from Milroy’s of Soho.

 

 

Inchgower 23 yo 2000 (51,5%, Milroy’s Vintage Reserve 2023, hogshead #804700)

Nose: not that different. Fairly neutral and malty, with hints of hay and vanilla. After a while it develops a creamy note and candied hints. Citrus and honey. Later sweet berries in the background as well.

Mouth: more citrus acidity, with an oily texture. Then it gets floral, with white peach, lemon peels, grassy notes and a subtle salty note. Returns to a nice sweet fruitiness with some white pepper in the end. Always a grassy undertone too.

Finish: medium, with sweet lemon and sweet spice, as well as a light chalky touch.

Again a fairly natural, nicely textured whisky. The added sweetness and complexity make it more to my liking than the Benrinnes, even though they’re not lightyears apart. Available from Milroy’s. Score: 87/100

 

 

Bunnahabhain 10 yo 2012 ‘Moine’ (50,3%, Milroy’s Soho Selection 2023, refill sherry butt #1368)

Nose: sea spray full of salt, with some fisherman’s rope, barbecued ham and hints of tar. Then a wave of lemony notes, hints of ginger and some medicinal notes (iodine). A rather rubbery smoke, but otherwise a pure and chiseled profile.

Mouth: very clean again, with sooty peat smoke, tarry notes and a big dash of limoncello. Creamy texture. Hints of smoked fish, black peppercorns, some honey sweetness, oranges and bacon.

Finish: long, with sweet peat, coal smoke and mild medicinal notes. And lemon of course.

Intense, clean, and fairly easy to drink as well. At this age complexity is still a bit limited, but it’s a great peated youngster. Available from Milroy’s. Score: 87/100