Auchentoshan 2007, Jura 2014, Bruichladdich 2003 (Maltbarn)

Auchentoshan 2007, Jura 2014, Bruichladdich 2003 (Maltbarn)

We already reviewed the Pasquet Lot 70 cognac from the latest Maltbarn batch, but obviously there was some nice whisky to discover as well. Time to discover an Auchentoshan 2007, Jura 2014 and Bruichladdich 2003.

 

Auchentoshan 17 yo 2007 (54,1%, Maltbarn 2024, sherry cask, 172 btl.)

Nose: sweet oranges at first, with hints of creamy donut and lemon candy. Then nectarines and biscuits, along with sultanas. There’s a light yeasty side, as well as a greener, rather grassy or herbal edge. A seductive profile.

Mouth: a similar sweetness, partly fruity (apricot, orange, plum and lemon cake) but also pastry-like (buttery oak, custard). Then gingery notes and some white pepper, bringing a light warming heat underneath, as well as an Irish pot still element at times.

Finish: fairly long, with the same combination of fruits, vanilla and rich oak spice.

Much richer than most of the Auchentoshans we normally come across. The fruitiness and round pastry character makes it impossible to dislike and almost too easy to drink. Like the others, still available from Maltbarn direct.

 

Isle of Jura 10 yo 2014 (55,6%, Maltbarn 2024, bourbon cask, 263 btl.)

Isle of Jura 2014 - Maltbarn

Nose: rather naked, which is good. Nice fruity notes (green banana, apple, yellow plum) along with gristy notes, lamp oil, paraffin and gravel. Subtle blossomy notes. Then distant leafy notes and a hint of new leather.

Mouth: still a bright fruity layer (lemon, lemon oils and green apples) with a beer-like quality, as well as fresh herbs. Then more of these waxy notes, faint mustard, a little white pepper and a firm coastal element. Biscuit dough underneath. Pleasant austerity, almost a Campbeltown profile at times.

Finish: long, with a firm salinity, along with marmalade and lemon zest, a little oak and cake.

A good Auchentoshan AND a good Jura – this must be our lucky day. Seriously, a young but very characterful Jura whisky, still affordable and a step up from the official bottlings. Score: 88/100

 

Bruichladdich 21 yo 2003 (50,5%, Maltbarn 2024, bourbon cask, 161 btl.)

Bruichladdich 2003 - Maltbarn

Nose: it’s got this nice waxy / chalky touch along with gooseberries and hints of melons. Hints of almonds, barley sugars and a faint milky note. Then light heather and some vaguely farmy touches, hard to describe but it reminds me of Port Charlotte, sans peat. Not extremely complex but really good nonetheless.

Mouth: great waxy profile again, along with a slightly more tropical fruitiness. Think bananas and yellow apples, mangoes, together with custard cream, melons and pink grapefruits. Also sage, lemon balm and mild leafy notes. Almonds and a light, grassy austerity towards the end.

Finish: long, slightly greener and bittersweet, with baking spice and green tea, as well as some rounder vanilla in the distance.

I’ve become quite fond of these early 2000s Laddies. I think they share a few very nice elements with these lovely Ben Nevis 1995-1996 bottlings, albeit with a few unique touches. Certainly a very solid line-up today. Score: 89/100

 

  
88