Mark Watt just finished a small tour around Belgium and he took advantage of this situation to send me a couple of samples. After Brexit sending samples overseas via postal services is still a bit of a mess, so bringing bottles accross the border yourself is much easier.
From the latest Watt Whisky releases we try a Glen Elgin 2013 and Nc’Nean 2018, as well as a blended Campbeltown Malt. This bottling celebrates Watt Whisky’s 100th cask.
Glen Elgin 11 yo 2013 (55,3%, Watt Whisky 2024)
Nose: gets the job done. I mean, green apples, grapefruits and lemon peels, moving towards flour and chalky notes. Then heaps of porridge. Some branches and grasses. A green fruitiness with a slight austerity.
Mouth: more interesting now. The fruitiness is less tight, bringing along some peaches and limes, pink grapefruits, apple compote and hints of oranges. Then back to drier chalky notes, a little varnish. Always porridge. Back to more leafy and grassy touches in the end, along with some white pepper.
Finish: quite long. I’m getting green melon, green tea and moderate oak spice.
We could have written these notes before actually trying it – Glen Elgin tends to have this consistent greenish and fruity profile. Already available from Royal Mile Whiskies for instance.
The next one is a blended malt using spirit from Campbeltown’s three distilleries. The focus is on Glen Scotia but apparently a very small amount of 28 year old Springbank was added to the cask.
Campbeltown Blended Malt 7 yo 2017 (57,1%, Watt Whisky 2024, barrel, 246 btl.)
Nose: typical oily notes (sunflower) with chalk, beach pebbles, hints of green banana skins and yellow apple. Lemons and subtle sourdough. Then some sweet spice with very light vanilla in the background.
Mouth: sweet apples and pears with some vanilla custard. This immediate roundness is countered with subtle peat and more of these pebblestones. The funky notes are noticeable, but it’s also easy to drink. A little white pepper, vegetal oils, tea biscuits and a hint of coastal smoke.
Finish: medium length, still on sweet apples, along with mineral notes and light mint.
You sense the youth, but this offers a good mix of Campbeltown funk, subtle peat and enough roundness to keep it accessible. Hard to fault if you’re looking for a glu-glu whisky from Watt’s home town. Available from The Whisky Exchange and Tyndrum Whisky for instance. Score: 87/100
Nc’Nean 6 yo 2018 (57,1%, Watt Whisky 2024, STR cask, 282 btl.)
Nose: a mix of peaches, hints of cassis, plums and some vanilla biscuits. Hints of peanuts, ginger and mild herbal elements. Then apples, nutmeg and mint. Plenty of toffee as well. It’s a hotchpotch of different elements – isn’t that the purpose of STR casks after all?
Mouth: quite strong, with caramel notes and generous amounts of oak spice. Pepper, cinnamon, oranges, more plums. A bit of a rough edge, with salty notes and a brief moment of alcohol heat. Candied ginger syrup, drops of clove oil and toasted oak, with a slightly tannic edge.
Finish: medium and sweet, balancing citrus and oak spice.
Very modern and spicy whisky, with a wood influence that I find too obvious, too contrived. STR casks are always a bit tricky and I think other distilleries are mastering them better. Seen at Broekmans and The Whisky Exchange, among others. Score: 80/100