We haven’t had the opportunity to try shop exclusives from Milroy’s of Soho before, although the brand itself is well known of course. It is London’s oldest independent whisky specialist, founded in 1964 by John ‘Jack’ Milroy. He was at the forefront of single malts which emerged in the 1960s and 1970s.
Fast forward to 2024 and they have several shops accross London, with a bar and a long list of events. They also started broking with their own in-bond storage and a growing series of own bottlings.
Today we’re looking at their most recent releases: a pair of 27 year old whiskies from Benriach and Glenburgie, as well as a peated Highland malt (rumoured to be from Jura) and a Campbeltown malt (rumoured to be Glen Scotia).
Benriach 27 yo 1996 (42,9%, Milroy’s ‘Vintage Reserve’ 2023, refill hogshead #43214)
Nose: bright and fruity. Truckloads of pears, nectarines, yellow plums and fragrant lemon. Then whitecurrants, some kiwi and tropical touches. Hints of icing sugar and natural vanilla. Whiffs of hyacinth, candle wax and crushed mint leaves. Spring-like, very seductive.
Mouth: still fruity, with apples, lime and grapefruit. Honey and woody flavours (ginger and white pepper) come out. Feels a little underpowered. Mid-palate it gets a bit green and grassy, with gooseberries and almonds. After that it picks up creaminess again, with hints of butter pastry.
Finish: medium long, with lingering green fruits and a fresh oaky side that’s never too loud.
A natural beauty with green and yellow fruits at its centre. It doesn’t really make a strong impression on the palate due to the low ABV, but it stays fresh and never becomes woody. Nice one. Only available from Milroy’s.
Glenburgie 27 yo 1995 (52,3%, Milroy’s ‘Vintage Reserve’ 2023, hogshead #6732)
Mouth: still sweet and fruity. Mango, lime, passion fruit syrup, with a waxy texture. Hints of almond cream and honey. Then lemon zest and light liquorice, as well as barley sugars and hints of vanilla. Some pepper and cumin in the end.
Finish: medium, with lightly tropical fruits, hints of putty and wood spice.
A vibrant fruitiness again, this time with a sweeter side and more prominent bourbonny wood. Lovely whisky and cheaper than the Benriach. Available from Milroy’s. Score: 90/100
Highland Peated Malt 19 yo 2004 (55,5%, Milroy’s ‘Soho Selection’ 2023, hogshead)
Mouth: very intense now, with a lot of medicinal notes, some antiseptics and hints of burnt grass. Raw smoke. Dry leafy notes, but also a refreshing mentholated edge. Then some acrid pepper, almost mustard as well. Green tea and lemon zest as well.
Finish: long, with pungent liquorice, ashy smoke, more pepper and mineral notes.
So they mention Jura on their website but I’m not sure how certain they are. Could be Ledaig in my opinion. Good whisky, but perhaps a little sharp on the palate. Sold out already. Score: 86/100
Campbeltown Blended Malt 6 yo 2017 (59,1%, Milroy’s ‘Soho Selection’ 2023, refill hogsheads)
Mouth: more citrus and maybe unripe pineapple, alongside white pepper and mineral notes, brine and a lot of chalk. Rosemary and ink. Then just a hint of breakfast cereals, with a little mustardy warmth and a good dose of salt. Very coastal, with a touch of marzipan underneath.
Finish: long and earthy. Plenty of chalky notes, brioche and pepper in the end.
A brawny Campbeltown malt that seems older than it actually is. Austere but characterful teaspooned Glen Scotia. Still a few bottles available from Milroy’s. Score: 87/100