Kirsch Import just launched a new series called Journal des Kirsch. It is devoted entirely to French spirits and the first batch already includes armagnac and two cognacs.
As far as I understand, bottles will be on the way later this week. For more information about distribution, better contact Kirsch directly.
The first is an armagnac from Lous Mouracs, a domaine in Ténarèze but their soils are probably closer to those in Bas-Armagnac. It is sourced from the stocks of L’Encantada.
Armagnac Lous Mouracs / L’Encantada 1996 (52,7%, Journal des Kirsch 2023, Edition 1)
Nose: a rummy impression at first. Apples and latte come out first, with a firm woody side and just a light alcoholic sharpness. Hazelnuts and almonds. Bready notes and bell pepper. Then hints of nougat, mint and aniseed, with a light metallic overtone. Much leaner than I expected.
Mouth: again quite punchy with a roughness that I’m not often getting in armagnac. Almonds, pear, hints of herbal extracts. Mineral touches and walnuts. Woody notes and pepper too. Again, this could be mistaken for a rum in a blind tasting.
Finish: medium long, still some wood and herbs, with pepper.
I’m not the biggest armagnac connoisseur but this is quite unusual to me. A dry, slightly mineral and herbal profile instead of the rounder style I’m used to. Interesting and fresh, although it may lack some sexiness.
Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet L.79 – Petite Champagne (52,2%, Journal des Kirsch 2023, Edition 2)
Nose: a big fruity core. Plums, apricots stewed in acacia honey, dark berries and nectarines. Plenty of orange peels. Hints of tobacco. Subtle pollen and a little mineral varnish. A dash of herbal syrup too, as well as grassy / minty touches which make it wider. Much more inviting than the armagnac.
Mouth: there’s a leafy, slightly tannic side (walnut skins, herbal liqueur) with some mineral elements, but this is largely compensated by lovely, juicy fruits. Pear tarte tatin, stewed peaches, hints of lychees and apricots on syrup. Hints of dessert wine. Then many tertiary qualities, light earthy notes, lamp oil, eucalyptus and hints of rancio.
Finish: long, back to honey and fruit tea, with a slightly darker fruitiness and some resinous notes.
Now we’re talking. This cognac mixes robust and mineral elements with beautiful (slightly exotic) jammy fruits. Actually the vineyards of this cognac are bordering Petite and Grande Champagne so it brings a composition of both crus. Seductive and really good. Score: 91/100
Cognac Vallein-Tercinier Lot 58 – Petite Champagne (51,6%, Journal des Kirsch 2023, Edition 3)
Nose: a lot of copper polish at first, alongside walnuts and almonds, cigar tobacco and orange peels. Hints of peach, but less exhuberantly fruity this time. Floral notes (peonies, a whiff of ylang-ylang) and hints of jasmine tea. Then some straw and rose peppercorns.
Mouth: woodier than expected now, almost like a herbal tea. A lot of liquorice wood, pine wood, cloves and caraway. Heavily infused black tea. Forest barks, grapefruit peels and drops of bitter extracts. Some peaches underneath. Then eucalyptus, more walnuts and resinous notes.
Finish: long but rather tannic and dry, on citrus peels, liquorice, marmalade and clove.
The nose is nice but on the palate the woody astringency crosses the line. To me this is past its prime and should have been moved to glass quicker, even though the peachy core is certainly there. I’m a little lost, as the combination Vallein Tercinier / Kirsch usually results in more fireworks. Score: 89/100