Ardbeg 1996 / Ardbeg 2002 (Gourmet Pool)

Gourmet Pool is a new German bottler (with a history in wine). They started with a bang by presenting an Ardbeg 1996, a 26 year old single cask release with an AI generated label. That’s not all, as they also managed to bottle a official Ardbeg 2002.

In the meantime Gourmet Pool built up a portfolio of over 20 casks, with a minimum age of 20 years. They own various Ardbegs but also casks of Macallan, Springbank, Talisker and Lagavulin. They’re also working on ‘Casks of Distinction’ releases, if I’m not mistaken.

 

Ardbeg 26 yo 1996 (52,8%, Gourmet Pool 2022, barrel #817 btl.)

Nose: rather powerful. It starts on mentholy smoke, crushed mint leaves, some roasted rosemary and thyme. After a while a fruity sweetness appears in the background. Mango, cooked apple, jammy apricot and hints of orange. Then wind-swept beaches, hints of fisherman’s rope and liquorice roots.

Mouth: elegant, starting on mild cigarette smoke, black peppercorns, liquorice. Mid-palate a wonderful exotic fruitiness comes out. Mango, papaya, peaches, alongside fresher lemon or grapefruit. Then herbal cough candy, smoked almond and salty peat. Oyster juice and plenty of briney notes. Just a light touch of honey around the edges.

Finish: long, with more herbal hints, marmalade, soft salt and a drop of espresso.

When was the last time we had an Ardbeg over 25 years of age (if you insist, it was Christmas 2014…)? Quite a wonderful old Ardbeg as well: on the one hand it hasn’t lost any of its Islay punch, while on the other hand it already shows nicely evolved tropical notes. This sets the bar high! Still available from Gourmet Pool.

 

 

Ardbeg 20 yo 2002 (50,2%, OB ‘Private Single Cask’ for Gourmet Pool 2023, second-fill bourbon cask #3290, 229 btl.)

Nose: ooh, also lovely. A bit more gentle, but this has stunning farmy elements, like some of the peatier Broras. Horse stables, and wet sheep wool. Then brilliant fatty notes, velvety earthy smoke and cupboards with fennel seeds and dried herbs. Subtle tarry hints, leather jacket, walnut and menthol, as well as smoked pear and bright lemons. I would genuinly have difficulty picking a favourite on the nose alone.

Mouth: no tropical fruits this time, but nonetheless a brilliant profile. Germolene, with hints of peppermint, barbecue smoke and seawater. Smoked fish, more tarry notes, lemons and hints of fresh herbs. Plenty of ashes, crushed peppercorns and liquorice towards the end. Hints of scorched heather and cold espresso too.

Finish: rather long and ashy, with fresher wood, herbal salt, metal polish and hints of coffee grounds.

This cask is bottled at the same age as the first 1970s single casks, just saying. I love this superbly fatty and farmy nose, and the palate is not far behind either. More assertive than the 1996 despite the lower alcohol. So here you go, same score in my book. Two cracking whiskies. Score: 92/100