Benromach recently launched the first reworked batch of its Benromach 40 Year Old. This will now become an annual release at cask strength.
The 2021 release was laid down in 1981 before spending four decades in first-fill Oloroso sherry casks. It is now the oldest expression released in Benromach’s new bottle design.
Benromach 40 Year Old 1981 (57,1%, OB 2021, first-fill Oloroso casks, 1047 btl.)
Nose: a rather lean, refined profile with prominent tobacco notes and a good deal of brass polish. Underneath there are overripe bananas, dried figs and blackberries, albeit in a slightly thinner way than you’d expect from first-fill Oloroso. Some waxy notes and old wood in the distance, also showing slightly fragrant spice. Black sesame, candied ginger and a whiff of cocoa.
Mouth: more tobacco leaves, alongside black peppercorns, Seville oranges and some tart cherries. Still a slightly coppery touch. Also cranberries, cold coffee and hints of clove. Worn leather, hints of herbal tea and peppermint before it fades on dark chocolate.
Finish: medium length, with more coffee, marmalade and herbal notes, as well as a hint of oak char.
This is a vibrant and slightly intruiging Benromach, with some unexpected aromas. The old-style tobacco, tart fruits and leather… there’s a lot to like yet I kept feeling it’s a little too high-pitched at times, lacking the jammier sherry side. Priced around £ 1500 from Benromach direct and retailers like TyndrumWhisky.