Unicorn 30 Years (CWS China)

I didn’t realize there were unicorns in Speyside until I saw this recent bottling for Chief Whisky Society in China. A 30 year-old single sherry cask from an undisclosed distillery.

Unicorn 30 yo 1988 (53,6%, CWS China ‘Myths & Legends’ 2018, first-fill Oloroso sherry butt #22, 630 btl.)

Nose: full of tobacco leaves, walnuts and leather. Hints of espresso and black tea, a little mulch and orange zests. Wet wood. Faint hints of pears and old rose petals, as well as some rancio notes. Beautiful, it has this old-style mushroomy side but also an elegant fruity edge. Reminds me of some very old Brandy de Jerez as well.

Mouth: a fairly thick texture, with a sweet start (raisins, fig syrup, honey pastry). Marmalade. Quickly balanced by drier elements, like liquorice, smoked wood and eucalyptus. More cigar leaves and coffee, a hint of sandalwood and chocolate. Faint flintly notes and some black peppercorns. Old brandy notes again. Fades on herbal notes and cough syrup.

Finish: long, warming and spicy, with chocolate and fruity orange echoes.

Perfect old-style sherried whisky. Especially the nose is outstanding, I can’t recall getting this profile in recent bottlings. Anyway, only for China and around € 1500 if I’m not mistaken.

Score: 92/100