Bruichladdich 2006 Islay Grown (Feis Ile 2016)

Bruichladdich had three bottlings available during Feis Ile 2016:

• Bruichladdich PHD_135 15 yo 2001
• Bruichladdich Valinch 2008 ‘Islay Grown’ Starchmill Darm
• Bruichladdich Valinch 2006 ‘Islay Grown’ Dunlossit Farm

 

We’re trying the last one, a cask filled with spirit distilled from Chalice barley grown on the Dunlossit Estate. Terroir whisky, from local processes.

The barley is grown in a desolate place known as the ‘headland of the the gallows’. This lonely field is a rare patch of fertility amongst the barren, rocky outcrops and peat bogs tilled continually since Neolithic times. Evidence of Islay’s earliest farmers, dated to 6,000 years ago, was discovered in this soil around 2011.

Chalice barley was grown by farmer Jim Logan on Dunlossit land owned by Bruno Schroder, a (former) Bruichladdich shareholder. It was harvested in September 2006 and distilled eight weeks later. Bruichladdich had a wider release of Islay Barley 2006 from Dunlossit before, in July 2012.

 

 

Bruichladdich 9 yo 2006 ‘Islay Grown’ (61%, OB – Feis Ile 2016, Chalice barley – Dunlossit Farm, Rivesaltes cask #3304, 410 btl., 50cl)

Nose: very malty and slightly lactic, on porridge and breakfast cereals with milk. A custardy note, but without the overdose of vanilla. Quite a lot of fruity notes underneath, like peaches and ripe melon with drizzles of honey. Hints of wet hay and yellow flowers. A soft sea breeze as well. Not entirely my style.

Mouth: very sweet and fruity now, with a thick texture. Lots of apricots in syrup, or poached butter pears – really beautiful. Almost a pear liqueur, alongside the big malty notes. Some vanilla and candied ginger. Also a greener note, something zesty. Greengages. Butter pastry.

Finish: drier, woodier now and not too long.

This one had some spectacular elements (due to the Rivesaltes maybe) and a few quirky sides, which makes it difficult to score. Around € 90.

Score: 81/100